Sa Pa

Hi everyone,

Unsurprisingly, we were very happy to leave Hanoi. After doing extensive, and very tedious, research (and by research, I mean running from fake travel agency to fake travel agency) we finally found a night train to Sa Pa. We had heard wonderful things about it from many other travelers, and were offered many a tour from the scam artist tourist agencies. We decided to go it alone, as we believed that we would have had better luck organizing ourselves outside of the nest of deceit that is Hanoi. On the train, we were lucky enough to be in a compartment with two people from the U.S. (John and Melissa) and two people from England. The Americans had booked a private tour in Hanoi (having found some expats to do the booking), and we decided to travel together.

They had arranged a private tour, involving a jeep for the day, and out of the way sights to which most tourists do not venture. We were lucky to be included. That said, the trip did not go as expected. The jeep had "broken down" and we were given access to a mini-bus. Predictably, the mini-bus was running on the schedule of the driver, and we were required to wait for it for hours at a time. Perhaps as a result of this, or perhaps simply because the people running the tour were incompetent, those out of the way sights were never to be seen. Instead, we did a very basic tour of the surrounding areas, and were driven to a small village, where we spent the night "in the home of a minority". This turned out to be run entirely by the Vietnamese government, which have treated the minorities rather like an irritated cow treats a fly. The government chose the minority person with whom we stayed; it was about as authentic as professional wrestling. The next day we were all feeling sick from the food, and saw only a few sights before returning, though I should mention that a jeep eventually arrived, looking as if the odometer had spun around so many times that it must have been dizzy.

Putting the gripes aside for a moment, the landscape is fantastic. It is easy to see why the Lonely Planet raves about the city. It is as picturesque as any I have ever seen, and I am sure that a better run tour would have provided a great view of the lives of minorities in northern Vietnam. That said, their lives appear to have been changed quite a lot since the tourists have arrived. While the men continue to work in the rice fields and on the rice terraces, the women spend their days attempting to overcharge tourists for textiles (I wish I was kidding). They start very young, know how to ask you to buy things in many different languages, and are everywhere. Having visited the Museum of Ethnology the day before, we had learned a bit about the traditional lives of these people, though it was only evident in their dress. It is very strange to see cable television in a traditional Red Zao hut, for example. I am not entirely sure whether tourism is a positive force in their lives. It gives them access to money and knowledge, but they will soon be in danger of losing their ethnic identity and culture.The day American Idol has a north Vietnamese minority contestant, I will know that all is lost. Until then, there is still hope!

Our good luck with trains continued on the way back to Hanoi. We had been booked in a car with a family (3 people, 2 beds, and one screaming child) but we found empty beds in another car, and hoped no one would remove us from these adopted places of rest. While the people who had booked those accommodations did arrive, they were nice enough to find another place to sleep, as it was the middle of the night, and we were already settled in. Our friends were not quite so fortunate, having been given fake tickets, and having been forced to ride in what they describe as a train car from hell. We consider ourselves lucky that we did not have to endure that. I am quite certain that I would have lost my mind had that been the case, as every relevant employee would have been given a piece of it.

Sa Pa really was a great place to see. I believe that if the government had not tampered with it quite so much, and if the tourists had not arrived in such great numbers, it would have been one of the best experiences on the trip. As it was, it ranks somewhere in the middle. While we were not particularly enamoured of Sa Pa, it is certainly not a place to be avoided.It is worth a visit. It would simply be nice if the tours were honestly run, and the experience had not contained the phrase "buy from me" quite so often.

Did I mention that the scenery was amazing? We could not have posted nearly enough pictures on the blog, so please click on Sa Pa Pictures, or enjoy the slideshow below:




Thanks for reading!

note: posted by Mike

Hanoi

Hi everyone,

Apologies for the week of blog neglect.

We arrived in Hanoi (or rather, Ha Noi) in the evening, having flown from Siem Reap. We met two very nice people from Texas, with whom we decided to share a cab into the city (and with whom we spent the better part of two days). They had a reservation at a hotel, and we figured that from there we could find a place to stay. Rather than wait in line for a

taxi, or take a very long trip on a mini-bus, we got into a black taxi. They gave the taxi driver the name of their hotel, and off we went. When we arrived, the hotel had no sign, and something did not seem right. Having read about this in the Lonely Planet, we did not fall for this trickery, and insisted that the taxi take us to the real hotel. I can respect a good scam. I would never do it, and I would hope never to fall for it, but a well thought out plan deserves at least some begrudging respect. However, this was one of the most poorly executed attempts that I have ever witnessed. So much for a welcome to Hanoi!

We spent two nights in Hanoi, which was one too many. We immediately felt like we were back in China, having become accustomed to the modicum of decency present in Laos and Cambodia. However, once again, we prepared to fight for every dollar and watch our backs at every moment. The Museum of Ethnology was interesting, though we tired of it quickly.

This has been my first experience in a country where you must insist that taxi drivers DO NOT use their meters. They all appear to be rigged, and rigged differently, such that a trip from point A to point B may cost twice as much as a trip from point B to point A. Needless to say, one must know how much the trip should cost and bargain like crazy.

Being in Hanoi is sort of like being placed in a hut in the middle of a four lane highway, though it would likely be quieter on the highway. Countless motorbikes are on the streets at all hours, and will barely swerve to avoid pedestrians. Booking a trip onward from Hanoi is also a joy. They appear to have no intellectual property laws, such that many of the travel agencies have had their names copied. It is impossible to tell which are real and which are not. An important difference between a city like Beijing and one like Hanoi is that in Beijing they will try to rip off a foreigner, but they will ultimately receive the thing for which they have paid. In Hanoi, not only will they attempt to take every penny, but they will likely also promise things which they do not have, or give fake tickets, or no tickets, or generally reneg on deals. In our experience, there is no honour in Hanoi.

That said, we did find a very nice place to stay (run by Australians, not locals). It is called The Drift, the rooms are clean, the staff are friendly and happy to help, and the location is decent.

However, our friends stayed at the Camellia Hotel, and that is to be avoided if at all possible. The staff were extremely unhelpful and gave our friends a hard time.

Unfortunately, Hanoi is a necessary stop in order to see northern Vietnam, but I would suggest spending as little time there as possible, and dealing only with people who have been recommended and are trustworthy. It is difficult to find a comfort zone in a city full of people who are constantly trying to scam you, steal from you and deceive you.

Thanks for reading!

Fish Massage, Anyone?

There are many items for sale in the Siem Reap night market, but a fish massage was not something I ever expected. What on earth is a fish massage, you ask? Imagine a pool of fish attacking the dead skin on your worn out feet while you scream and laugh because it feels so weird and so ticklish. You sit with a bunch of other people while everyone makes faces and also tries to convince the passersby to join in on the fish parade.

I can't explain what it felt like to have twenty fish attacking my feet all at once, but it almost felt as if someone was poking me in the same spot over and over, or was tickling me endlessly. It cost $3 US for 20 minutes, which was completely worth it. The only problem was that we didn't know how clean the water was and you could almost see the little bits of fecal matter floating around. Nevertheless, when we got out of the pool, our feet were clean and we were happy.

Temple Pictures

Please either follow this link to Picasa for our temple pictures, or enjoy the slideshow below:

The Temples of Angkor Wat

Enjoy!

Last Day in Siem Reap

Hi everyone,

On the way back from Ban Teay Srey, we stopped at a military compound, as we were told that there was a shooting range there. Neither of us having shot anything more than a slingshot, we decided that it would be an interesting experience. We were not disappointed. This is one of the only places in the world where automatic weapons can be shot for a fee (I assume enough money could buy one the opportunity elsewhere, but I digress). We decided on the AK47, which is the weapon of choice for most developing nations when they choose to wage war. The gun was attached to a stand, the soldiers showed us how to fire, and we aimed at a target down a long tunnel. It was much louder than we had anticipated. Squeezing the trigger, smelling the gunpowder, feeling the recoil and trying to steady the jumping barrel made a profound impact on me. As the sound of the shots reverberated off of the walls, I realized how lucky I have been to have avoided being on either end of this instrument of death. Armed with the knowledge that children as young as 12 have used this heavy weapon in battle, I was able to feel the power and the fear that must be a part of every soldier's emotional repertoire (even though we were in such a structured and safe environment).

On the next day we went to the War Museum. Having just fired a weapon, we then learned about the history of their use in Cambodia. A guide who was born during the war showed us the tanks, guns and mines used during this time. He was volunteering, and had shrapnel still inside from an unfortunate incident with a land mine. He told us about his many losses, including both his family and his home. It was also interesting to hear his political point of view. He suggests giving money directly to victims rather than large organizations. The different types of land mines were astonishing in their lethality. Some of them are engaged by trip wires, others by pressure, and all have the capacity to kill or maim. There are mines which are made of plastic and fertilizer, which must be sniffed out by dogs rather than metal detectors, and others which jump to waist height before exploding. We saw many victims of land mines in town as well. If that amount of damage is still being done by mines from years gone by, I can only imagine what kind of things are being used in wars being waged now!

After leaving the museum, our tuk-tuk driver took us to his apartment so that we could meet and eat with his family. He, his wife and their daughter live in a rented apartment approximately 8’ by 5’, without running water. His was the smallest tuk-tuk that we had seen. That said, he made up for it with his heart. Even at 5am, he was cheerful and happy to see us, and though he was constantly talking about his financial situation, he provided us with a clear view of local life. We ate at a great restaurant, met his adorable daughter, and saw how people from the countryside live. His name is Sophal, and if you are interested he will pick you up from the airport. He can be emailed at sophalangkortour@yahoo.com.

Thanks for reading!

Siem Reap Temples

Hi everyone,

We flew from Vientiane to Siem Reap on Lao Airlines, which does not seem to deserve the lousy reputation which it has acquired. The food was edible, the plane remained whole at all times, and the flight attendant even gave a brief safety lecture. Our Lonely Planet induced fear of flying on the airline seems to have been unfounded. Upon arrival, we met up with a tuk-tuk driver (Sophal) recommended by my cousin. He picked us up at the airport and patiently obliged us as we searched for a suitable place to stay. We found a guesthouse, which is not worth mentioning because it was unbearably hot, and not nice enough to recommend. We found another later which met our needs.

The main reason that we came to Cambodia was to visit Angkor Wat. It was a Hindu temple when it was completed in the 12th century, then later became Buddhist. It was located deep in the jungle, and was not destroyed in any of the numerous wars in Cambodia. It has been called one of the seven new wonders of the world, and it is easy to see why. It was magnificent. We watched the sun rise over the temple, bathing it in the soft morning light, before exploring the interior under the blazing sun. It seemed like every turn held some new treasure. Every wall is intricately carved, adding to the overall beauty of the structure. The fact that it stands without the aid of modern binding agents is simply miraculous. We explored for most of the morning, enduring the crowds and the sun, learning about the temple, taking innumerable (ok, not literally, but close) pictures and admiring the architecture. The trip to Cambodia would have been worth it just for the amount of time that we spent in the temple.

On the first day, we saw five temples, including one made famous in Tomb Raider (kind of sad that after almost one thousand years of wear and tear, numerous wars and diseases, somehow the best way to present an image of the temple is to describe a Hollywood creation). They are all incredibly intricate. Though I know precious little about architecture, the different styles of temple were evident to me. Each one was well worth the visit. On the next day we saw more temples, though the weather refused to cooperate, making for an adventure that was less charming than that experienced on the first day. I must also say that after having seen the shining jewel at the heart of the complex, the temples that we saw on this day simply lacked the lustre they might have had if they had been viewed first.

However, on our final day of temple viewing, we saw Ban Teay Srey Temple. It is significantly smaller than the others, but even more detailed. It was the only one into which we were not allowed free access, but the view from the non-restricted areas more than made up for it. Someone we met in Siem Reap remarked that the diminutive doorways appear to have been designed for children. Everywhere we turned there was another fantastic design, each one worthy of the place above the mantle in the living room of the grandest home. It was not the only temple we visited on our 3rd day, but it was the most memorable.

An album will soon be posted with more pictures from the temples.

Thanks for reading!

note: posted by Mike

Vang Vieng

Hi everyone,

Vang Vieng is a well known place for tourists to stop in Laos. Most people who choose to stay are between the ages of 18 and 25. It is essentially a village along the river, and the main attraction is renting an inner tube and traveling from bar to bar along the river. We had been advised that actually renting a tube is rather burdensome, as the bars are rather close together. In fact, when we arrived it was not even possible to rent a tube, as the current was too strong. Undeterred, we went down to the bars by the river and had an amazing time.

On the first day we arrived at 2pm, and made it to the fourth bar by the time the sun went down. Each bar has its own attraction (apart from the ubiquitous cheap buckets of vodka and free shots of whisky) such as a large rope swing or a zip-line. Needless to say I took advantage of the opportunity to fling myself into the river. People working for the bar then dutifully pulled me, and the rest of their customers, out of the river before the current swept us downstream. While the combination of alcohol and water can cause serious problems, in this case most people knew when it would be unwise to go into the river. However, there was one girl who imbibed too much and was rescued by an alert lifeguard.

On the second day we began at 3pm and made it to the 5^th bar before sundown. At night we were too tired to party like the rest of the temporary inhabitants of the village, so we visited our friends at the bar, but took it easy. Unfortunately, as we are not deities, we could not wait for the 7^th day, and rested on the 3^rd. We took our books down to the river and read.

Most of the restaurants in Vang Vieng play "Friends" on a continuous loop. It is pretty much unavoidable, and I must say, I have seen enough of the show to last me a lifetime.

We took a 4 hour (coach) bus from Vang Vieng to Vientiane, where we spent an uneventful evening, though we did meet two nice girls who work in Singapore. There is really very little to see in the capital, but we needed to be there to catch our flight to Siem Riep.

Thanks for reading!

note: posted by Mike

From Luang Prabang to Vang Vieng

Hi everyone,

It took us six hours to get from Luang Prabang to Vang Vieng by mini-bus. It seems that no one taught those who built the roads about the shortest distance between two points, making for a nausea inducing ride. The window of the mini-bus was not sealed, and as it was pouring the entire time, the drops of rain offered slight relief from the sweltering heat inside. That said, by the end of the route the people closest to the window were soaked. Unfortunately, it remains the best way to get from one city to the other. However, we do wish that we had opted for the larger bus, which cost the same amount.

Thanks for reading!

Luang Prabang

Hi everyone,

As you can imagine, we were pretty happy to arrive in Luang Prabang. Laos is much more tourist friendly than China, even though the infrastructure is far inferior. However, amazingly, Laos appears to be cleaner than China.We stayed at Spicy Laos Backpacker’s hostel, which was a very social place to be. The people were great. However, there was an unfortunate incident with a falling ceiling fan, though thankfully we were not involved. We arrived late at night, made friends with two very nice British girls (Carinne and Tara), and then went to sleep.

The next morning the four of us went to the Kuangsi waterfalls. Tara and I got to jump off of the falls, as well as swing on a rope into the water.We also did a small hike, during which I got stung by something which I could not see but which hurt quite a lot. We then saw some bears in a rescue sanctuary before going back to the hostel. Later, we went to the only club in the city with literally everyone at the hostel. Every business closes at midnight, as is required by law, but for some reason the bowling alley is open until 3am, so off we went. After hanging around there for a while, we made our way back to the hostel via tuk-tuk (either a motorcycle with a frame on it to carry passengers, or a small truck).

The next day, having made two other friends, the six of us rented bicycles in order to explore the villages surrounding Luang Prabang. It was a very pleasant excursion, though it is difficult to climb hills on a bike without gears, and more difficult to stop without properly functioning brakes. The people in the villages seemed very cheerful, even though the conditions in which they live are rather spartan.

On Ilana’s birthday, Carinne, Tara, Ilana and I went to an elephant village (where they treat the elephants properly, unlike some of the tours) with a company called Tiger Trail. We learned a bit about elephants beforehand, and then spent an hour riding them. It is a strange experience. The size of the animal instills confidence, but it still feels unstable, rather similar to riding a camel. Afterwards, we got to feed the elephants. I thought it was fun, but Ilana absolutely loved it! We then went to a disappointing waterfall before heading to a cute little café for cake. Finally, we went out for dinner and drinks with a large number of people.

Though we did not see the most famous temple, nor the famous hilltop view, nor fed the monks (because it was raining) we had an amazing time in Luang Prabang, and I would highly recommend it as a backpacker’s destination.

Thanks for reading!

The Evil Bus Ride

The bus ride was like nothing I have ever experienced. When I first looked at the little hole we had to crawl into, I thought it was a joke. When I finally learned that it wasn’t, I nearly cried. Realizing that I would have to spend 28 hours cuddled next to a man I did not know did not make me very happy. When you spend many hours in a little space, it tends to get very hot, but for some odd reason, the people sleeping near the windows did not open them! We had to keep asking the man I was next to if he could open the window, but after 10 minutes he would close it. I kept counting down the hours and telling myself it would be okay.

When we got to the restaurant, I looked at the food and realized I should not eat much knowing that I would not feel well the next day. I avoided everything spicy and ate only stir fried vegetables, but apparently I wasn’t careful enough. The next morning I felt really sick and did not eat for nearly 24 hours as a result. As you can see, this truly was the bus ride from hell. For those of you with weak stomachs, I would recommend avoiding all food on this trip. And for the girls, bring toilet paper and be prepared to squat next to other girls somewhere in the forest because you won’t see many bathrooms along the way.

From Kunming to Luang Prabang

Hi everyone!

We did not do very much in Kunming. The hostel was pretty good, but the town was rather disappointing. We then had to figure out how to get to Luang Prabang, in Laos. Flying was out of the question as the cost was prohibitive on a backpacking budget.

No trains run from China to Laos, so we were left with a long distance bus. We could have taken a 13 hour bus to the border, then a tractor across the border, and then Lao buses to Luang Prabang, but it would have meant sleeping at least one night at the border, and probably a

second night in northern Laos. The other option, of which we were rightfully scared, was a 28 hour sleeper bus.

If you are planning the same route, and can possibly afford it, fly. Otherwise, I believe that we made the right decision by taking the 28 hour bus. The Laos buses would have taken forever. That said, by the end of the ride, the bus driver seemed to have horns, it was unbearably hot and with a bit of imagination you could hear the tormented souls of th

e damned crying out in agony as the wheels turned. Seriously, it was a hellish bus ride. We booked the tickets late, which meant we were sandwiched on the bottom bunk at the back of the bus. This bunk was the size of a queen sized bed, and five people were expected to sleep there. As if that were not already enough fun, there were metal bars in between the very small mats, further cutting down on sleeping space. About halfway we were lucky enough to switch to the top bunk, where I spent the better part of ten hours being alternatively spooned and elbowed by a small Laotian man. (Do you hear the hellish laughter yet?). The bathroom stops were infrequent and were best spent outside. I assume that the toilets had been cleaned at some point, but we could find no evidence of said efforts. The stops for food were orchestrated such that there was only one very expensive option. That would have been acceptable if the food was good, but it was basically leftovers from the evening meal at restaurants. Needless to say it made us feel rather ill. As if all of that were not enough, since it is a Chinese bus, everyone is alternatively smoking and spitting. So, if you are planning this trip, bring your own food, book in advance, and prepare yourself.

Note: We no longer have to worry about the Great Firewall of China!

Thanks for reading!