July 26, 2009

Hanoi

Hi everyone,

Apologies for the week of blog neglect.

We arrived in Hanoi (or rather, Ha Noi) in the evening, having flown from Siem Reap. We met two very nice people from Texas, with whom we decided to share a cab into the city (and with whom we spent the better part of two days). They had a reservation at a hotel, and we figured that from there we could find a place to stay. Rather than wait in line for a
taxi, or take a very long trip on a mini-bus, we got into a black taxi. They gave the taxi driver the name of their hotel, and off we went. When we arrived, the hotel had no sign, and something did not seem right. Having read about this in the Lonely Planet, we did not fall for this trickery, and insisted that the taxi take us to the real hotel. I can respect a good scam. I would never do it, and I would hope never to fall for it, but a well thought out plan deserves at least some begrudging respect. However, this was one of the most poorly executed attempts that I have ever witnessed. So much for a welcome to Hanoi!

We spent two nights in Hanoi, which was one too many. We immediately felt like we were back in China, having become accustomed to the modicum of decency present in Laos and Cambodia. However, once again, we prepared to fight for every dollar and watch our backs at every moment. The Museum of Ethnology was interesting, though we tired of it quickly.

This has been my first experience in a country where you must insist that taxi drivers DO NOT use their meters. They all appear to be rigged, and rigged differently, such that a trip from point A to point B may cost twice as much as a trip from point B to point A. Needless to say, one must know how much the trip should cost and bargain like crazy.

Being in Hanoi is sort of like being placed in a hut in the middle of a four lane highway, though it would likely be quieter on the highway. Countless motorbikes are on the streets at all hours, and will barely swerve to avoid pedestrians. Booking a trip onward from Hanoi is also a joy. They appear to have no intellectual property laws, such that many of the travel agencies have had their names copied. It is impossible to tell which are real and which are not. An important difference between a city like Beijing and one like Hanoi is that in Beijing they will try to rip off a foreigner, but they will ultimately receive the thing for which they have paid. In Hanoi, not only will they attempt to take every penny, but they will likely also promise things which they do not have, or give fake tickets, or no tickets, or generally reneg on deals. In our experience, there is no honour in Hanoi.

That said, we did find a very nice place to stay (run by Australians, not locals). It is called The Drift, the rooms are clean, the staff are friendly and happy to help, and the location is decent.

However, our friends stayed at the Camellia Hotel, and that is to be avoided if at all possible. The staff were extremely unhelpful and gave our friends a hard time.

Unfortunately, Hanoi is a necessary stop in order to see northern Vietnam, but I would suggest spending as little time there as possible, and dealing only with people who have been recommended and are trustworthy. It is difficult to find a comfort zone in a city full of people who are constantly trying to scam you, steal from you and deceive you.

Thanks for reading!

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